We fund purchases from franchised dealers, independent dealers, private sellers and auctions. The checks differ by route, which is why we ask which one you are using.
Where you can buy
The finance is the same wherever you buy. What changes is how much diligence sits between the offer and the money leaving.
| Route | What we check | Typical extra time |
|---|---|---|
| Franchised dealer | Invoice, vehicle identity, title. | None |
| Independent dealer | Invoice, trade status, vehicle identity, title, finance check. | A day |
| Private seller | Seller identity and ownership, vehicle identity, title, finance check, condition report. | Two to three days |
| Auction | Auction invoice, lot details, title, condition and any declared faults. | Two to three days |
Never pay a private seller before settlement
We pay the seller directly once checks clear. A seller pressing you to transfer a deposit outside that process is the single most common vehicle scam.
Dealer finance against ours
Dealer finance is sometimes the better deal and sometimes considerably worse. It is a five-minute check, and holding a pre-approval is what makes the check possible.
- 1Agree the cash price of the car first, before finance is discussed at all.
- 2Ask the dealer for the total amount repayable, not the monthly payment.
- 3Ask whether the price changes if you do not take their finance. Sometimes a discount is conditional on it.
- 4Model the same cash price at our rate over the same term in the calculator.
- 5Compare the two totals. Whichever is lower wins; the difference is real money.
Zero-rate promotions are usually genuine
A manufacturer subsidising 0% is often unbeatable — but check whether taking it forfeits a cash discount. The comparison is the discounted price at our rate against the full price at 0%.
Part-exchange and existing finance
- Trade-in value
- Counts towards your deposit. Get an independent valuation before accepting the dealer figure — it is the easiest number for a dealer to move.
- Outstanding finance on your old car
- Must be settled from the trade-in value. Ask your current lender for a settlement figure before you negotiate.
- Negative equity
- Where the old car is worth less than the balance, the shortfall does not disappear. Rolling it into the new loan is possible but means borrowing more against a car that is already depreciating.
- Add-ons
- Paint protection, extended warranties and gap insurance are optional. Decide on each separately from the finance rather than as one monthly figure.
What we need to release funds
- The invoice or bill of sale, in your name, showing the full price and any deposit already paid.
- The vehicle identification number, registration, mileage and date of first registration.
- Confirmation of clear title and no undisclosed outstanding finance.
- The seller bank details, verified with the seller rather than taken from an email.
- Proof of insurance from the date the vehicle passes to you.
Verify bank details by phone
Invoice redirection is common in vehicle sales. Confirm account details by calling a number you found yourself, never one printed on the invoice you were sent.
Documents you may also need
Get Pre-Approved
A decision in principle before you shop: what it tells you, what it does not commit you to, and what we need to give you one.
Vehicle FinanceVehicle Finance Rates
Indicative rates for new, used and electric vehicles, what moves the rate you are offered, and the fees that come with it.
Vehicle FinanceRefinance Your Vehicle
Move an existing car loan to us: when it saves money, when it quietly costs more, and exactly how to check which applies to you.
This document was last updated on 1 August 2026. We publish the current version here at all times; superseded versions are available on request.
If anything on this page is unclear, write to us and we will explain it.